Updated:
Jan 19, 2025The Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Hoody ($399) occupies a nice middle ground between a true winter-weight down jacket and a lightweight model. And with a streamlined weight and bulk, it’s one of the most compelling options for serious, weight-conscious pursuits in cold weather—during a break while ski touring, for example, or at an alpine rock climb belay. We do wish the Fitz Roy had a two-way zipper and a slightly longer hem, and it’s important to note that it’s not as warm as the previous version: For prolonged exposure in frigid temperatures—think belaying your ice climbing partner or climbing a 6,000 meter peak—you’ll want a bit more insulation.
Warmth
Weight & Packability
Comfort
Durability
Weather Resistance
Sustainability
Weight
1 lb. 1.1 oz.
Insulation
6.4 oz. of 800-fill down
Fabric
20D nylon
Packable
Yes (pocket)
Pros
Cons
Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Hoody
For this season's top puffies, see our guide to the Best Down Jackets.
The Patagonia Fitz Roy Down Hoody is a midweight down jacket, featuring 6.4 ounces of 800-fill power down. Given this level of insulation, it’s overkill for most summer conditions in the Lower 48, but it comes in handy during the shoulder seasons and while climbing at higher elevations in British Columbia and Alaska. On the other hand, it’s not quite as warm as a winter-weight down puffy like the Rab Neutrino Pro, which features 7.5 ounces of 800-fill down. The Fitz Roy’s level of warmth puts it in its element for fast-and-light adventures in the cold, when you’re spending most of your day moving but need a blast of warmth during pauses at transitions, belays, or in camp.
I took the Patagonia Fitz Roy on a seven-day expedition to Mt. Kilimanjaro, and it kept me warm throughout the trip in temperatures that ranged from 32 to 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Paired with a Patagonia R1 fleece, the Fitz Roy was a cozy haven during chilly nights and mornings around camp, and features like the dual-sided hem cinch and draft collar at the neck meant I could truly batten down the hatches. I even wore the jacket during the entirety of our summit day, when we climbed through the night and wee hours of the morning from 16,000 to 19,000 feet. The Fitz Roy provided all the warmth I needed for this kind of adventure, where I was moving most of the time and never sitting still for more than 10 minutes or so in cold temperatures (10˚F). For long belays or camping in similarly cold temperatures (i.e., situations when I’m generating less body heat), I would want a warmer down jacket like the Rab Neutrino Pro or Patagonia Grade VII.
One of the headlining features of the Patagonia Fitz Roy is its impressively low weight and packed size, given the warmth it puts out. At 1 pound 1.1 ounces for a men’s large, it's significantly lighter than the majority of midweight down jackets that match it in warmth. For example, the Arc’teryx Thorium Hoody, which features less insulation (5.2 oz. of 750-fill down compared to the Fitz Roy’s 6.4 oz. of 800-fill down) checks in heavier at 1 pound 2.2 ounces. The Fitz Roy also stuffs into its own pocket and packs down to the size of a loaf of bread (in the words of our tester, a “rustic loaf of sourdough”).
In other words, the Patagonia Fitz Roy is lightweight and small enough that you’ll barely notice it at the bottom of your alpine climbing or ski touring pack. This makes it an excellent choice for single-day winter or alpine missions where weight and packability are important, such as my climb of Kilimanjaro. And when you get caught in a storm in the Bugaboos or are waiting for your ski partner to transition on top of a cold, windy summit, you’ll be thankful you have it.
The Fitz Roy scores top marks for comfort—wearing it, I feel like I am wrapped in a silky, cozy sleeping bag. The cuffs and hood were two of my favorite features of this jacket, providing a snug, protective fit that sealed out the cold. Even when I cinched the hood around my head, I could still turn my head fully from side to side (there’s ample room for a climbing helmet), and the elastic cuffs moved easily up my arms when needed. Although the jacket’s fabric is relatively thin, it’s incredibly soft (hence the sleeping bag effect). In terms of fit, the Fitz Roy has excellent mobility—I could wear it under a backpack while hiking and never felt constricted. All in all, this jacket feels like it’s “floating” on my body and is much more comfortable than my heavier (and admittedly very old) North Face parka.
The Patagonia Fitz Roy also offers very convenient storage in the form of four external zip pockets (two chest, two hand) and one internal drop pocket with an elasticized opening. I routinely stored my phone, snacks, and headlamp in various external pockets (sometimes playing the game of memory to remember where I put each one) and found the internal pocket handy for my extra gloves and hat. And a big bonus: I found all the zipper pulls on the jacket super easy to operate while wearing thick mittens.
The Fitz Roy lands in the middle of the spectrum for durability: Its 20-denier Pertex Quantum face fabric is more robust than the Rab Mythic G (7D), but less so than the Rab Microlight Alpine (30D) and the Rab Neutrino Pro’s 20D Pertex Quantum Pro. You can still stuff the Fitz Roy into a backpack without worrying too much, but you’ll need to be careful while wearing it around sharp rocks and rogue branches. And although you’ll be tempted to wear it around town, just keep in mind you’ll want to baby it a bit more than down jackets with more substantial face fabrics. Aside from the thin shell fabric, the Fitz Roy is exceptionally well crafted, and it’s worth mentioning that Patagonia’s repair program is top-notch.
At $399, the Fitz Roy is on the expensive side for a midweight down jacket, but considering its versatility, warmth-to-weight ratio, and the high-quality construction and warranty program that Patagonia is known for, we think it offers good value.
My summit push on Mt. Kilimanjaro began in the wee hours of the morning with a few snow flurries. I wore my Fitz Roy as an outer layer, and the durable water-repellent (DWR) coating repelled the light moisture well enough that I never worried about it seeping through the shell fabric. That said, we don’t recommend wearing the Fitz Roy Hoody in anything more than a light and cold snowshower—moisture is down’s kryptonite, rendering it soggy (picture a drenched cat) and useless for insulation. In terms of the competition, the Rab Neutrino Pro’s Pertex Quantum Pro’s shell fabric does a slightly better job repelling moisture, but it’s a bit of a moot point as the jacket is much too warm to wear in temperatures above freezing.
It’s worth a reminder that apparel with PFAS-free DWR needs regular washing to maintain its water-resistant properties—far more so than apparel of yore, which featured PFAS DWRs. This is because PFAS-free DWR does not repel oils and dirt, which can then sit on the DWR and impact its performance. We especially like washing our down products with Grangers Down 2-in-1 Wash + Repel soap, as it both cleans and adds a new DWR finish.
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Longevity
Choosing durable outdoor gear and keeping it in use for longer is one of the best ways to reduce environmental impact. Our proprietary longevity rating assesses factors like overall build quality, materials, fabric denier, component durability, and real-world performance. A green check indicates that we expect the product to be long-lasting relative to its peers, a yellow check mark indicates average longevity, and a red X indicates a product that may have a limited lifespan.
Responsible Down
The Responsible Down Standard (RDS), developed by Textile Exchange, is the leading certification for responsibly sourced down and uses third-party audits throughout the supply chain to verify animal welfare, responsible farming practices, and safe working conditions. Recycled down is another responsible choice that helps reduce demand for newly sourced down while keeping existing materials in circulation. A green check mark indicates a product uses responsibly sourced or recycled down, a yellow check mark indicates the brand sources responsible or recycled down for the majority of its products but does not specify it at the product level, and a red X indicates the product does not use responsibly sourced or recycled down.
PFAS-Free DWR
Durable water-repellent (DWR) finishes can contain PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances). These highly persistent “forever chemicals” are used in outdoor gear for their strong resistance to water, oil, and heat, but are linked to environmental contamination and a range of health concerns. A green check mark indicates the product uses a PFAS-free DWR, while a red X means the DWR contains PFAS.
Recycled Materials
Recycled materials are prevalent in outdoor gear, with nylon, polyester, wool, and down among the most common, but the composition varies widely. A green check mark indicates the product is made with a substantial amount of recycled materials (100% recycled or the core fabric that makes up most of the product is recycled), a yellow check means it contains a moderate to small amount of recycled materials, while a red X means there are no recycled materials in the product.
Bluesign Approved
Bluesign Technologies, based in Switzerland, operates a third-party textile management system that ensures materials are manufactured to strict environmental, chemical, and worker safety standards. A green check mark indicates a product is either a Bluesign Product (contains at least 90% Bluesign-approved fabrics and 20-30% Bluesign-approved accessories) or features a significant amount of Bluesign-approved materials. A yellow check mark means it uses some Bluesign-approved materials but less than the aforementioned category, and a red X means there are no Bluesign-approved materials in the product.
Responsible Manufacturing
This criterion evaluates a brand’s commitment to fair wages, safe working conditions, and reducing environmental impact through certifications and programs like Fair Trade Certified, Fair Wear Foundation, Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP), and the Fair Labor Association, while also recognizing brands that manufacture primarily in the U.S. or Europe under strict labor and environmental regulations. A green check mark indicates a brand meets our responsible manufacturing criteria, while a red X means it does not.
Recycled and/or Reduced Packaging
Packaging can add significant waste to outdoor gear purchases, so many brands work to reduce its impact by using recycled materials, incorporating Forest Stewardship Council-certified paper products, and minimizing plastic and paper use. A green check mark indicates a brand uses recycled or reduced materials across all of its packaging, a yellow check indicates moderate or limited use of recycled or reduced packaging, and a red X indicates the brand does not make either of these efforts.
Repair Services
Repair services extend the lifespan of outdoor gear and reduce overall consumption, though programs vary widely. Some brands offer comprehensive repairs for a range of issues, while others provide limited or no repair support. A green check mark indicates a robust repair program, a yellow check mark indicates limited repair services, and a red X indicates the brand does not offer repair services.
Resale and/or Recycling Services
Resale and recycling programs help keep outdoor gear in circulation longer and out of landfills, ranging from trade-in resale platforms that offer store credit to take-back initiatives that recycle products at the end of their usable life. A green check mark indicates a brand offers both resale and recycling programs, a yellow check mark indicates it offers one or the two, and a red X indicates it offers neither.
Carbon Footprint Tracking
This criterion evaluates whether a brand measures, reports, and works to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions using established frameworks such as the Higg Index, Greenhouse Gas Protocol, or The Change Climate Project. A green check mark indicates a brand publicly reports greenhouse gas emissions data, sets clearly defined reduction targets, and uses established tracking frameworks such as Higg or The Change Climate Project. A yellow check mark indicates the brand tracks emissions and outlines reduction goals but provides limited data, lacks science-based verification, or does not clearly report progress. A red X indicates the brand does not appear to track greenhouse gas emissions or provides so little information that its efforts cannot be verified.
Annual Impact Report
Annual impact reports provide transparency and accountability by outlining a brand’s sustainability efforts across areas such as material sourcing, greenhouse gas emissions, waste, water use, supply chains, and packaging. A green check mark indicates a brand publishes a detailed, brand-specific impact report that closely aligns with our sustainability criteria and leaves little room for ambiguity. A yellow check indicates a brand provides some relevant sustainability reporting but lacks detail in key areas or is covered only briefly within a parent company report. A red X indicates a brand does not regularly publish an impact report.
Tester: 6’2” 175 lb.; 41" chest; 32" waist
Size tested: Men’s large
I normally wear a men’s size large, and the Patagonia Fitz Roy fit perfectly in a large—neither slim nor overly boxy, which allowed for easy layering underneath and a great range of motion on my 3,000-foot summit climb of Mt. Kilimanjaro. If anything, it runs a tad large, so if you prefer a trimmer fit, consider sizing down. The jacket extends the entire length of my arms and well below my hips, offering full coverage for cold conditions. I found that the Fitz Roy works best as an outer layer, although I was able to fit a shell over it without feeling too much like the Michelin Man.
Rab Neutrino Pro ($425): A True Heavyweight Belay Parka
The Fitz Roy and Neutrino Pro are belay jackets that fall around the $425 price point, but the similarities all but end there. The Rab Neutrino Pro is significantly warmer and more protective than the Fitz Roy, with 1.1 ounces more down, a more durable and protective Pertex Quantum Pro shell, and a longer center back length that’s far more “parka-like” than the hip-length Fitz Roy. We think it’s the better belay parka for off-the-deck climbing—think belaying at the ice park or cragging at Indian Creek in the fall—but it's a bit too heavy for fast-and-light alpine missions like climbing in Patagonia. It’s also not nearly as soft and cozy as the Fitz Roy for those who like the sleeping-bag-like feel of a winter-weight down jacket. For more, read our Neutrino Pro review.
Rab Mythic G ($525): Wanna Go Lighter?
If you’re an alpinist or backpacker looking for that Goldilocks combination of warmth and low weight for particularly chilly outings, also check out the relatively new Rab Mythic G. The Mythic G features 4.5 ounces of 1,000-fill down—almost two ounces less than the Fitz Roy, but of a significantly higher fill power (remember, this means more loft, which translates to more warmth). It also has a reflective liner that Rab claims boosts the jacket’s heat retention by 30%. All told, it comes close to offering similar levels of warmth as the Fitz Roy, but for a whopping 7.3 ounces less. If staying warm in sub-freezing conditions is a concern, we’d go with a Fitz Roy, but if you want ultralight and packable warmth for chilly belays in the high country, give the Rab Mythic G a look (you’ll just have to be really careful with its 7D shell). For more, read our review of the Rab Mythic G.
Named after one our our favorite mountains, the Fitz Roy is a soft and cozy mid-to-heavyweight jacket that offers efficient warmth for sub-freezing conditions. However, it lacks a few key features we look for in a belay jacket, including a long hem, two-way front zipper, and sufficiently wind and water-resistant face fabric.
Warmth
Weight & Packability
Comfort
Durability
Weather Resistance
Sustainability
A winter-weight down parka that can handle light moisture thanks to a very weather-resistant Pertex Quantum Pro shell and hydrophobic down fill. We love this jacket for ice climbing, cold-weather cragging, and ascending some of the Lower 48’s tallest peaks.
Warmth
Weight & Packability
Comfort
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Hold up, what!? We can’t believe Rab managed to pack this much warmth into such a lightweight jacket. You’ll pay a pretty penny for it, and it's unsurprisingly fragile. But the Mythic G is the only sub-10-ounce jacket we know of that can handle freezing temperatures.
Warmth
Weight & Packability
Comfort
Durability
Weather Resistance
Sustainability
The Patagonia Fitz Roy is one of our top recommendations for those who want the warmth of a midweight down jacket at a low weight and packed size. It’s overkill for summer in the Lower 48 and not enough warmth for winter in the Rockies, but it’s the jacket we reach for while rock climbing in the Bugaboos or Patagonia’s Chalten Range, ski touring in the Cascades, or—in the case of our tester Jonas—summiting Mt. Kilimanjaro. And as a bonus, it’s equally at home running errands around town in the winter. We wish the Fitz Roy had a two-way zipper (ideal for use with a harness), and you’ll have to baby the 20-denier shell fabric, but these are small gripes for such a streamlined and functional belay parka. There are undoubtedly lighter and warmer options out there, but for a jacket that combines the best of both at a more reasonable $399 price point, the Fitz Roy is a compelling choice.
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